My 1996 19′ Freedom Wide Leisure Travel has suffered greatly from handling problems and stability. I was ignorant of how extensive the problem was when I bought the RV. I assumed that the “loose steering” could simply be tightened or adjusted–that the problem was in the steering. Last year I had mechanics telling me to just live with it, that’s the way these things were made inferring that, I as a woman, had no idea what driving a big truck was like. So, as a woman I just nodded my head and took my rig elsewhere; never even mentioned that I’ve driven diesel work trucks, caterpillars, tractors and an assortment of pickups. Such handling issues without corrections are a danger; sway and wandering can make an RV tipsy and unable to hold the road in a straight direction. In the beginning, driving my RV was white-knuckle, back-straining ordeal. In the wind it was terrifying. The solution is complex involving shocks, rear anti-sway bars, the necessity for wheel spacers, adjusting tire pressure, choice of tires including looking into wider tires and rims, condition of steering linkage and ball joints, and perhaps adjusting the steering gear box. The big Dodge Ram 3500 Van used for the Leisure Travel, Road Trek, Pleasureway and other, mini-RVs in the 1990s have an inherent issue as the weight falls heavily behind the rear axle. On my Dodge, the rear tires were inset a few inches inside the track of the outer tires.
Increase in caster, what Superior is doing to the front end alignment, could be a better solution than the steering damper. Here’s an explanation from Wikpedia : caster is adjusted to achieve the self-centering action of steering, which affects the vehicle’s straight-line stability. Improper caster settings will cause the driver to move the steering wheel both into and out of each turn, making it difficult to maintain a straight line.
The next thing Superior will do is replace my brand new front brake pads. Lucky me I get to pay for two brake jobs in one week!
Learned more when i went to pick up the LT. The steering dampener is meant to correct variations one might experience going over rocks and rough dirt roads, better for a 4-wheel drive vehicle. I’m not sure about some of the stabilizers I see sold at Camping Word, if they are the same as what was on the LT, or if they are more helpful to a Class B or really meant for larger RVs. The LT does seem to handle better with it off and with the caster increased.
Need to return tomorrow as the alignment is off, drifts / pulls to the left. I can’t really tell anything until this is corrected.
Was advised to keep the air shocks up to a min of 60 (straight up and down on the gauge) and to experiment with running them as high as they will go. I’ll do this and see.
I’m quite interested in the wider tires and wilder rims; these would only be needed for the rear wheels. the front can remain as current with the Country Airs. Dunlap or Firestone was recommended for the rear as Michelin have too soft a side wall. One inch wider if I wanted to try. And I do but they would have to be ordered.
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What did you do to fix the steering problem I have the same problem on my 2002 dodge Pleasure way need a fix thanks. Robert
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Hi Robert, I’ve had a lot of work done which has all helped to a varying degree. The most helpful was to the add the rear wheel spacers, the rear stabilizer and the steering dampener. Also I keep the rear tires at about 75 psi and the front tires at 50 to 53 psi. It’s still not perfect but the LT is now drivable even in fairly strong wind. I keep saying I want to do more, want better control but until I find someone who can make such a promise, I am cautious. The steering is still odd being very sensitive yet too much play at the same time however it holds the road and the front wander is minimal. The more I drive it the easier it seems.
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I have the spacers on now but did not help much i am now trying to find a steering damper and am not having any luck any help will be appreciated.Robert
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The steering damper should be easy to find. You want a heavy duty one. Where do you live? A good brake and tire shop that handles large vans and trucks should be able to help. I think camping world sells them. Also called steering stablizer. If you’re in OR you can go to the experts at Hendersons. The link should be on my page. Check common RV problems under videos also the RV doctor.
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I live in a remote area in Tn.Called camping world and they did not have one for my camper.No one else that i have tried seem to have the brackets that will fit.I tried steer safe and they said Therese would work with modification.Safe-t-plus did not have one to fit.May need to fabricate a bracket will need the shock and don’t know the length i need.Robert
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Hello, what width of rear spacer did you add.
Thanks
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Robert, how’s it going? Are you having any luck? If you can drive your motorhome at all, it might be best to take it to a larger town/area. Even with all the “fixes” I did my LT still has drivability issues, but they are manageable. Have you checked issues like the shocks and springs along with the steering arms and steering gear box. …. I find on my LT keeping the front tires down to 50 to 55 helps a lot.
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I took the camper for a front end alignment yesterday and had the caster increased 2 degrees.It made a real difference the camper is a pleasure to drive compared to before.I also put the steer safe on and i can drive down the road at 65 and turn the steering wheel loose and it goes straight.I am so grateful for all the help you have given me.I feel like i have found a friend and i hope so.Maybe our path’s will cross some day Thank you so much. I live in E-Tn.if you are ever in these hills stop by.I am in the foot hills of the smokey mountains. Robert
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Wonderful!!!! Am so happy that your rig will be on the road now! It’s a challenge sometimes. Hope we keep in touch…. let me know if you come to the West Coast, at some point I will travel across the country.
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What was the caster set at before you added 2 degrees more?
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I am SO glad to find this post! I recently flew from Austin, Tx to Austin, Mn to purchase a used 1999 Leisure Van. I almost immediately noticed the front end drift in a headwind. I was looking for a new front steering stabilizer when I ran across this post. Sounds like I should try the caster increase before replacing the steering damper. It is manageable and driveable as it is. I just thought surely it could be better??
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Try the caster and be sure and check the toe. I also dropped the front tires to 50 to 55 psi. It’s not perfect but my LT is drivable even in fairly strong wind.
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When I bought my 78 Dodge B300 chassis Xplorer, I could barely keep it going straight at 35mph, much less 55mph. I replaced the whole front end plus shocks (but not springs) and control arm bushings. Then I had an alignment done at a shop. It was much better but still had steering slop. Then I paid the shop to replace the steering gear box since they said it was worn out. This called for a second alignment they said. It further improved actual steering related problems.
However, I am having the handling problems still. I am about to try replacing the 20+ year old rear shocks this afternoon. It certainly can’t hurt … but after reading this and other posts, I suspect it may not totally solve the problem. But I’m going to have it done anyway.
My steering is not loose, just really sensitive with the new steering gear box. You can almost steer with 1 finger.
It seems like the rear sways more than the front when parked, when me inside making the van rock side to side. Maybe it’s my imagination, I don’t know.
I do drive with ~30-35 gallons of water due to staying off the grid a lot. The fresh water tank (20-22 gallons) is right over the rear axle, while the grey water tank (22 gallon) is between the axles but nearer to the rear. The recirculating toilet is directly ahead of the rear axle (3-6 gallons depending how much it’s been used) and the water hater (3-6 gallons?) is about mid way between the axles, if not a bit closer to the front.
The rear axle of this thing bears a lot of weight due to the fuel tank, fresh water tank, Onan AJ 2.7kw generator, two 20lb propane tanks, plus storage compartment in very rear. There isn’t much I can do about weight distribution from the rear other than moving my tool bags of wrenches, sockets, etc to inside the living space. It might lighten it by 40-50lbs but that’s all.
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I had the same problem i will make. It short i put 2in spacers on back steel spacers.Put steer safe on front and now it drives like it should.Hated it then love it now does so good i drive it now. Just to be driveing drives great does not wander at all.If you need any info just. PM me help any i can.Iknow how. Disgusting it is when you dont even want to drive or go anywhere.I hope it helps Robert
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Robert. Can you send me a link where I can purchase the 2 inch spacers. Thanks
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E-mail me I have a set rb4gilb@netzero.net Thanks
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I have a set e-mail me.
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Hello, can you send me the where you purchased the spacers as well.
cyuzwak@gmail.com
Thanks
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Does it have to be steel spacers? The ones I find around here are aluminum, and what is a steer safe? Thanks for you’re time
Rod Hopkins
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steer safe is a steering damper just google it and it will explain it all.Robert
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I I bought a used RAM 3500, 1995 Pleasure Way . I have new Firestone tires and just had 4 Bilstein shocks installed. The van seems to drives much worse with the new shocks, thought they were the problem until I found this link. Please help. Info on where to find the spacers and steer safe for the front to fix this problem van would be much appreciated,
Thanks
Lee, Huntsville,Alabama
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The tires are Good Year not Firestone as stated in my note. I had driven several thousand miles including the Plue Ridge Pkw and the Skyline Dr without problems before the new shocks. The new shocks were in preperation for our Alaska trip which we canceled because of the problems. Am trying to find info, part numbers, to determine if the wrong shockes were installed.
Lee
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I bought the wheel spacers at a tire shop in Ventura, California. The shops in Santa Barbara where I live insisted they would not instal them as they believed the spacers would cause trouble. The spacers were one of the best improvements to the handling that I made to the van. They can be ordered online if necessary. My ride is far from perfect, There is still too much sensitivity in the front end and going over rough roads i.e. many of today’s highways, can be tiring. On the other hand I am able to drive in high wind and keep to the road without too much difficulty. Loading heaver items to the front of your van can help.
I’ve dropped the front tires to about 52 psi… that also helps a lot!
Am wondering if your shocks are just new, I’d think they’d improve with mileage.
I’m wanting to upgrade my LT to a sprinter diesel dually …. another LTV or Pleasureway or Great West Legend for improved handling and to drive to Alaska. Will see if I do so, as this will cost a lot of money.
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I have a 1998 Pleasure Way with the extended with body and have way to much rear sway. Did you find that the wheel spacers made a difference?
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Yes!!!
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It’s really too bad these Dodge Vans have so much trouble, I love my ’96 Leisure Travel but even the manufacturers admit the Dodge configuration was an unstable approach; the weight is unbalanced but hang in there with a few adjustments and a lot of patience you can achieve a much better drive.
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Maybe I have it better than some with my model. It is much shorter than most Class B’s. Less height means better center of gravity. It still feels like it takes an effort to keep straight in the lane but I can’t imagine one taller. I am waiting on new Bilstein rear shocks to put on mine. The old shocks are old and worn out. It may help a bit. It certainly can’t hurt. I might need another front end alignment after though since it may throw off the front end with new rear shocks.
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What model number of Bilstein shocks? Looking to replace mine on a 96 Dodge Pleasure Way..
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Bilstein B6 4600. Now I have an 85 Ford E350 class C and it got them on the front of it about 8 months ago. I found the very old front right hand side Monroe completely compressed and not even attached at the top mounting point anymore! The nut just came off. Check the website link below to see that, and the old shocks vs a new Bilstein B6 4600.
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oops the link is above on my username
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Check out the Xplorer Widebody Dodge vans…they had dual-wheel conversions on them, very stable.
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I’m sure I could convert my Dana 60 rear end to dually but that it would look really tacky having the outer wheels sticking out past the body. It would make a mess of the rear side of the van for dirt and such.
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We have a 2002 dodge b3500 with a great west conversion with Many of the same problems discussed above. I was going to try a rear stabilizer bar but am having a hard time finding one as our van has the large fuel tank. Has any one put a stabilizer on and if so where did you purchase it,thanks for now
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Rod, I do have a rear stabilizer bar as an add-on and I can recommended it. It was well worth the purchase. I took my RV to a shop referred to me by Henderson’s Line Up http://www.hendersonslineup.com/ The folks there were very friendly and able to give me a list of places within driving range of my location.
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Rear stabilizer, I would consider installing a Roadmaster sold by etrailer.com
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Please note my comments above on may 28 and 29 2014.
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Hi,
I just bought a pleasure-way yesterday with a dodge 3500 and drove it down the highway for two hours. It was drifting all over my lane. I was going about 55 and the other semis and cars were all going 75.I didn’t feel safe going any faster and at one point put my emergency flashers on. I was kinda disappointed as I had just bought it and everything else seemed nice on it. It was very harrowing. My last PW also had a dodge 3500 with the same problem. Not sure what to try first or who to take it to… tire shop, rv place or regular auto mechanic. I live in Mesa az if anyone has a recommendation, but guess I’ll try the spacers and see if it needs any of the above mentioned items and then get an alignment. Not sure how much this will cost and maybe I’ll be better off just selling it and getting a chevy or a ford?
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Putting new Bilstein rear shocks on my 1978 Xplorer (Dodge B300 chassis) did wonders. The old rear shocks were totally worn out. I drove from Texarkana to Benson AZ and it felt very shakey at times on the highway. I then had new rear shocks put on. Then I drove from Benson, AZ to Seattle, WA and it never felt shaky again with the new shocks.
Keep in mind, the entire front end has also been rebuilt in the past 2 years by me with all higher quality parts.
I run my rear tires at 80psi (the max for LT rated tires) and my front tires at 50psi which is above the spec listed on the door frame tag but it’s so much heavier than a shock 1 ton van that it needs it. Also the higher the PSI, the better capable the tire is of dealing with the weight placed upon it. Also, a tire 80psi can roll better than 50psi for example since it’s not being flattened against the pavement as much if it has a very heavy load on them such as in the rear.
Not only do the rear tires have to support the vehicle’s weight, but also up to 20 gallons of fresh water, and up to 36 gallons of fuel. Fresh water and fuel are over or begind the rear axle. Grey water is between the axles.
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I have a 1978 Dodge Transvan I put a self centering stablizer in the front steering bar it is a hydral horizontal shock with springs on it that keep it centered i bought it at JC whitney 25 years ago it made a big improvement it was easy to install
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Hi, Live in Wi., am looking at a ’88 Xplorer XL w/42,000. My first foray into rv’ng. It is a high top and am a little concerned about the possible wallowing all over the road . It is nice to know their are some possible fixes for this.
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Anything large, even with helpers, can sway in high wind at high speed.. so keep that in mind.
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I have a 98 Dodge B3500 Pleasure Way with 26,000 mile. It has new tires and brakes but it is hard to control past about 50 miles an hour. The rear seems to want to sway way to much . Front tires at 45lbs rear at 80lbs and air shocks at 50lbs. Trying to figure out what is the best solution, sway bar or spacers?
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I’d do both (rear sway bar) and maybe you can put 50 in the front tires and drop the rear to 75. I also have a front steering stablizer. Make sure the alignment is right on.
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Great site. I have a 2000 LTV 4 that I have been restoring for a year now. Removed the closet to increase the bed size (2 dogs), updated electronics (added camera’s, back-up sensors, stereo/alarm, rebuilt TV overhead console), did all the noted suspension updates, shocks and spacers made all the difference. Do you have any pics of the underside of your unit? I’m wondering what heat shields you have under there by the exhaust.
Keep up the great work, I think I should post some pics of my restoration. It’s been fun so far.
Ken
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Thanks Ken, I’m not sure what’s under there but I plan to add some underbody insulation. Yes post pictures, would be great to see.
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Hi
I am looking at buying a 2001 Great West that has 65000 miles on it.it is a lasts B on a dodge chassi.
It has a high roof and is loaded ….roof air….gen set….shower etc..I am wondering if all of this weight will be a problem at highway speeds…is the wandering problems that I am reading about
Going to be more pain than the camper is worth….torn…..George
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I think that’s a personal issue. I love my Dodge Van RV. With the improvements I’ve made I have no trouble driving even in high winds and I enjoy the wider body and shorter length compared to the sprinters as I’m able to take my LT on nearly any road I encounter. My reason for wanting a newer RV has more to do with my wish for a self-contained shower and improved insulation to keep my dogs comfortable in the heat. There is a learning curve as far as the handling. It’s an older RV after all. If you can do a lot of test driving.
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Hi George, I am reconditioning a 2000 LTV on a Dodge 3500. The suspension changes that really matter are the best shocks you can afford (I used Munroe Gas) and the 2 inch spacers. You likely have the sway bars already. I drive around at speeds up 110 Km (90ish) and it handles great. My experience is that the inside bits like fridge, furnace, AC etc are the parts that cost the big money.
The spacers were 200 Canadian and the shocks a bit more. Next wheel alignment, ask the tech to add some caster adjustment to tighten up the steering if it needs it.
The stock steering shock is sufficient, they make no difference when driving down the road, just on surfaces where your wheels are being pulled around by potholes etc.
Hope this helps…Ken
P.S. my van has 250,000 KM on it, still running good.
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Thanks Guys
I am heading out on Sunday and should have my test drive sometime Monday…l will let you know
How it goes…George
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Turns out that the 105000kms was 105000miles
Because of the misleading ad,we did not buy this particular van but instead
Ended up with a 1998 pleasureway on the one ton dodge chassi…In excellent condition
With 87000kms…drove it about 500km home and although it was not the rock on the road that my 2006 3/4 ton diesel GMC pickup is,it was not a problem…had a MV inspection done and there were no problems found with the van….where do the 2″ spacer blocks go and where could I find these…is there a part number…….thanks in advance for any advice..George
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Bought mine from Lordco (Canada), 180.00, 2 inch, bullet aluminum, go between the tire rims and the drums/calipers. No part # but they will know what you are looking for. Check the bolts after a monthor so of driving to ensure they stay tight. I used lok-tite.
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Thanks. Will check out the spacers…
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I’ve been reading this site for past couple of years and would like to share our experienced with our special Dodge B3500 RV (a rare 1995 Get-Away conversion with high top / extended maxi van). Bought new, I believe there were only 3 others with this RV type made before the company went bankrupt later in the year. Currently has over 405,000 kms (has rebuilt Jasper 5.9L motor put in 3 years ago @ 360,000 kms). On original transmission.
For most part, the van had never had steering stability issues though, we knew there was an alignment issue as the front tire tread had uneven wear. This was never corrected or had the urgency to do so until it was too obvious (i’m certain over the years as the front suspension wore and became sloppy, then the poor alignment became more obvious by uneven tire tread wear). However, the van NEVER had steering or stability issues on the highway (even with strong winds) at this state.
As a preventative breakdown measure, we replaced the motor 3 years ago. The next year we did a full front end rebuild. It was this point we noticed HUGE steering and stability issues. The wandering was very aparent and driving trips to Alaska, you really had to be focussed on the driving. Passing trucks over 100kms/hr was risky and dodging pot holes was no easy task. We took the van back to the shop that did the front end suspension and asked about caster adjustment. They said it’s already at the maximum positive end before too much becomes a problem with the power steering (loading it up). They actually checked alignment 3 times and insured us that the front is solid and good as it should be. I should also mention around the same time the front suspension was done, we had a new rear end axle with diff put in. The original one had a ‘spun bearing’ which they tried to fix it by welding but it broke loose after the 1st long distance trip. Auto wreckers across Canada had no stock of the year range for 95′ rear axel and diff and the closest we could find was a 2002 axle diff (which only had 20,000kms on it – so like new). The shop had no problem doing this modification as they often did high lift works on trucks etc. so they were confident in doing the modification to make this axel fit. The difference between the 2 was that 2002 one had 5/8″ wider tracking, brake lines were different to accomodate ABS, and featured a limited slip diff which the original one didn’t have. Wheel lug bolts were swapped so to fit original rims.
The shop advised us to get a steering stabiliser which is a shock that goes inline with the steering rod (looks like shock). Upon more online research, we ended up going with this. http://www.dodgeramsteeringstabilizer.com/
Shop installed it and i’m glad to report this trip in 2016 was a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE. The wandering was almost eliminated and if there was any, it would probabaly be attributed to the crappy Corsar brand tires we had put 4 years ago. The van now holds a straight light at highway speeds and there’s confidence at passing and at high speeds. Despite this steering stabiliser wasn’t exactly what the shop was thinking, i’m happy that we didn’t look into adding rear wheel spacers, changing shocks, etc.
On a different note, we just changed to full synthetic oil and noticed a huge improvement in mileage. During out trip in Alaska we’re getting close to 16 mpg (US Gallon) which is pretty much the figure on a new van.
What do you guys advise on tires? I’m thinking of going with the new Michelin Defender LTX which is an updated tire of their earlier LTX (which some forums has complained of road instability).
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